B-o-r-i-n-g nappy pants.

I'm a big fan of me old cloth nappies.  Not because I'm a tree-hugging earth-mother type, but because they work better for me than disposables.  I actually don't mind doing laundry, and I'd rather wash the nappies than endless sets of soiled clothes.  We have Tots Bots bamboozles, which are a bamboo-based two part shaped nappy.

Anyways, little Button needs boosters now he's bigger, which are just an extra absorbent layer.  Tots Bots old-style ones are no longer for sale (boo hoo), and although their new ones are excellent, they're a bit more pricey when you need 12 more boosters for daytime wear.

I elected to make his new boosters myself, using fabric from Plush Addict, who had 20% off nappy making supplies during real nappy week.  I went for bamboo velour for the outside, with a single layer of Zorb sandwiched in the middle.

The bamboo velour has a super slinky drape and quite a lot of stretch.  The zorb feels like a very dense rough quilt batting, almost like felt.

Apparently, the zorb shrinks quite a lot in washing, but you can't pre-wash it or it will fall apart.  Therefore, I bring you the cunning cutting sizes, as determined by my own experiments.

For 1 booster:
2 pieces of 12cm x 30cm bamboo velour
1 piece of 12.5cm x 32cm zorb

Because the zorb is 115cm wide, and the velour is 150cm wide, you can manage to get 13 boosters if you plan your cutting carefully by buying only 0.5m length of zorb, and 0.75m length of the velour.  (I didn't care whether I cut on the lengthways or crossways grain; they're just nappies.)

To make up, I found the best method was pin the zorb inside the bamboo layers, stretching the velour to meet the edges of the zorb all round.  This is not a problem as the velour is so stretchy.  The right-sizes of the velour should be outside.

Next, I used my machine to sew around the edges with a zig-zag, making the corners curved slightly.  I found it much easier to hold the pieces by machine stitching first, (before the overlocking stage) as they're really stretchy and slippy.

After machine stitching, I trimmed the corners into a curve with scissors and overlocked around the whole edge with a 3-thread overlock.  I found I had to increase my stitch width (compared to how I'd set it for woven cotton), and 4-thread overlock didn't work so well.  I know the overlock cuts and sews in one, but I still got better results by trimming the corners with scissors first; it was all too much for the poor machine otherwise.

The booster looks all contorted from the oversize zorb inside, but after washing it shrinks to match the velour and voila!  We have a delightfully flat booster!

I did this 13 times.  B--o--r--i--n--g.