As edited on 20th June 2014:
Fixed row 15 on plate #3, thanks Aparna!
Stegosaurus is worked mostly in double crochet (or, single crochet if you're from the US) and in continuous rounds like a spiral. To get a uniform look on the stegosaurus body there's lots of stopping, breaking yarn and re-starting. This is to avoid the different "look" of the stitches caused by changing direction or using a bigger stitch (e.g. trebles). All these shenanigans mean that you can't pull your work down easily and re-use the wool, so use cheap stuff or count stitches like crazy! Almost no two rounds are the same, and for that I apologise. I've been explicit about where to place increases and decreases so that they're evenly spaced psuedo-randomly and they're not too obvious on the finished toy. It is true that this pattern is complicated, but not needlessly so - if it were worked in the standard continuous spiral manner, the head and tail would appear higher up the body. The method in this pattern allows the formation of a "hump" along the spine of the toy.
When working on the body, if you break yarn or join on again then you can catch the spare yarn "tail" into every other stitch behind your work as you stitch past the join. This avoids a tonne of ends to sew in, and possibly makes the toy a bit more robust.
I recommend using a bunch of safety pins as stitch-markers to indicate the beginning of the round, and to mark out any stitches you think you might loose or ignore accidentally when you pass them on the next round. YOU MUST KEEP TRACK OF THE BEGINNING OF EACH ROUND or your life will be very hard! The marker should be placed in the first stitch of the round. On just a few occasions I'll tell you to re-position this start marker further along the round.
Please contact me if you find an error and I'll be pleased to correct it! I hope you enjoy the toy and will consider following my blog. Please don't sell this pattern or items based on it - it's for your personal enjoyment only.
***UK CROCHET TERMS THROUGHOUT!***
To change to American crochet terms
Just copy the text on this page
into your favourite text editor and do a find & replace to change
sc->sl st and dc ->sc (in that order) and colour -> color ;-)
and you’re ready to go stateside! Hoorah!
Positioning the start marker
The stitch with the
marker in is “stitch 1”, and I always count from the marker. You just
move the stitch marker up each round: when you get to the marker, take
it out of the stitch it’s in, make that stitch, and place it into the
stitch you just made. (The only time you move the marker in a different
way is in rows 67 and 79.
After each "round", you will work your last stitch into the stitch right before the marker, or else earlier (if you see the "break yarn" instruction). You will never blithely continue past the marker in a round - if you find yourself doing this then it's a sign you've made a counting error somewhere. If you add up the number of stitches involved in each row instruction, you will see they exactly add up to the total (given in square brackets at the end of each row). I've been very careful to check the mathematical accuracy of this pattern as I wrote it, so you really can rely on the pattern to help you spot your counting errors.
Re-joining the yarn in the next round
Some row
instructions are a bit opaque. I'm going to explain the ones where you
join the wool in again, using row 19 as an example:
19)
Join by making next st in 8th st from start marker (7 st left
unworked). 1 sc, 4 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 13 dc (... as 3 dc, ^, 9
dc) [33]
You start counting at the marker (the
stitch that the marker is placed in is called "stitch 1", the next
stitch is "stitch 2" and so on) and count in the direction you're
stitching. In the case of row 19, you count up to the 8th stitch and
join the wool in there. So, that's the 8th stitch after the marker. The
1st stitch (with marker in) is left unworked, and so are the next 6
stitches after it, which is what I mean by "
7 stitches left unworked".
Then you do 1 sc, 4 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 13 dc. The sc in this
instruction is into the stitch where you just joined the yarn ("stitch
8"). The bit in parenthesis "
(... as 3 dc, ^, 9 dc)" explains
that the 13 dc are made into 3 dc, then 1 sc, then 9 dc on the row
before. You don't need to know that, but it might help to check your
stitch numbers are correct! So, adding up stitch numbers on row 19, you
should have:
7 unworked & 1 sc & 4 dc & inc
& 1 dc & inc & 1 dc & inc & 13 dc = 33 stitches in
total, into the 30 stitches on the row before (because we did 3
increases this row).
Extra help
If you are struggling with stitch counting or yarn joining/breaking, I've provided some photo tutorials
here.
Keep asking questions in the comments if it's still confusing! :-) I usually get an e-mail notification and will endeavour to respond to you. I know this is a difficult and non-standard pattern, and no, short-rows will not produce the same effect (I tried). However, before commenting please make sure you have read ALL the above text twice and also read through the comments already made on this post as your question may have already been answered.
To shorten the instructions, I'll use the following abbreviations:
sc = UK single crochet
dc = UK double crochet
+ = dc inc (make two dc into one stitch on the row below)
- = dc dec (dc two stitches together)
^ = dc into a sc on the row below. (I indicate these as a special stitch only to help you keep track of where in the round you are.)
Stitch totals at the end of each row are indicated in square brackets as [total].
Repeated units are inside curly braces, e.g. "{3 dc, +} 3 times" would mean: "3 dc, inc, 3 dc, inc, 3 dc, inc".
To find out how to do a magic ring, see this tutorial:
clicky here.
You will need:
Double knitting wool in 2 colours. I used probably about 50g or less of the main colour. I wish I had weighed how much exactly...
3mm crochet hook
scissors
tapestry needle for sewing in ends
safety pins as stitch markers
polyester stuffing
Stegosaurus Body
In main colour.
1) Magic ring, 6 dc [6]
2) {+} 6 times [12]
3) {3 dc, +} 3 times [15]
4) 2 dc, +, 2 dc, +, 3 dc, +, 3 dc, +, 1 dc [19]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end. Nobody wants stuffing oozing out of a dinosaur nose.
5) {5 dc, +} 3 times, 1 dc [22]
6) 5 dc, +, 16 dc [23]
7) 17 dc, +, 5 dc [24]
8) 24 dc [24]
9) 24 dc [24]
10) 24 dc [24]
11) {6 dc, -} 3 times [21]
12) 3 dc, -, 4 dc, -, 3 dc, -, 3 dc, - [17]
13) 6 dc, -, 3 dc, 1 sc. Break yarn (5 st left unworked in this round) [16]
14) Join by making next st in 2nd st from start marker (1 st left unworked). 1 sc, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 2 dc, +, 7 dc (... as 1 dc, ^, 5 dc) [19]
15) 3 dc (... as 1 dc, ^, 1dc), +, 3 dc, +, 3 dc, +, 1 dc, 1 sc. Break yarn (5 st left unworked) [22]
16) Join by making next st in 2nd st from start marker (1 st left unworked). 1 sc, 4 dc, +, 4 dc, +, 3 dc, 1 sc. Break yarn (6 st left unworked in this round) [24]
17) Join by making next st in 5th st from start marker (4 st left unworked). 1 sc, 1 dc, +, {2 dc, +} 3 times, 8 dc (... as 1 dc, ^, ^, 5 dc) [28]
18) 8 dc (... as 1 dc, ^, 2 dc, ^, 3 dc), +, 8 dc, +, 1 sc. Break yarn (9 st left unworked) [30]
19) Join by making next st in 8th st from start marker (7 st left unworked). 1 sc, 4 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 13 dc (... as 3 dc, ^, 9 dc) [33]
20) 12 dc (... as 7 dc, ^, 4 dc), +, 3 dc, +, 3 dc, +, 1 sc. Break yarn (11 st left unworked) [36]
21) Join by making next st in 10th st from start marker (9 st left unworked). 1 sc, +, 4 dc, +, 4 dc, +, 15 dc (... as 3 dc, ^, 11 dc) [39]
22) 16 dc (... as 9 dc, ^, 6 dc), +, 3 dc, +, 3 dc, +, 1 sc. Break yarn (13 st left unworked) [42]
23) Join by making next st in 14th st from start marker (13 st left unworked). 1 sc, +, 4 dc, +, 4 dc, +, 17 dc (... as 3 dc, ^, 13 dc) [45]
24) 19 dc (... as 13 dc, ^, 5 dc), +, 2 dc, +, 2 dc, +, 1 sc. Break yarn (18 st left unworked) [48]
25) Join by making next st in 20th st from start marker (19 st left unworked). 1 sc, {+, 2 dc} 3 times, + (in sc below), 18 dc [52]
26) 26 dc, +, 25 dc [53]
27) 13 dc, +, 5 dc, +, 10 dc, 1 sc. Break yarn (22 st left unworked) [55]
28) Join by making next st in 27th st from start marker (26 st left unworked). 1 sc, +, 3 dc, +, 5 dc (... as ^, 4 dc), +, 5 dc, +, 11 dc [59]
29) 17 dc, +, 27 dc, +, 13 dc [61]
30) 27 dc, +, 4 dc, +, 4 dc, +, 23 dc [64]
31) 24 dc, +, 18 dc, +, 20 dc [66]
32) 21 dc, +, 26 dc, +, 17 dc [68]
33) 33 dc, +, 6 dc, +, 27 dc [70]
34) 32 dc, +, 37 dc [71]
35) 44 dc, +, 26 dc [72]
36) 54 dc, 1 sc. Break yarn (17 st left unworked) [72]
37) Join by making next st in 25th st from start marker (24 st left unworked). 1 sc, 14 dc, +, 32 dc (... as 14 dc, ^, 17 dc) [73]
38) 73 dc (... as 24 dc, ^, 48 dc) [73]
39) We have passed the widest part of the body, so begin to decrease. 39 dc, -, 32 dc [72]
40) 30 dc, -, 40 dc [71]
41) 48 dc, -, 21 dc [70]
42) 39 dc, -, 29 dc [69]
43) 34 dc, -, 7 dc, -, 24 dc [67]
44) 31 dc, -, 11 dc, -, 21 dc [65]
45) 27 dc, -, 8 dc, -, 9 dc, -, 15 dc [62]
46) 32 dc, -, 6 dc, -, 20 dc [60]
47) 26 dc, -, 7 dc, -, 7 dc, -, 1 sc. Break yarn (13 st left unworked) [57]
48) Join by making next st in 26th st from start marker (25 st left unworked). 1 sc, 3 dc, -, 7 dc , -, 17 dc (... as 3 dc, ^, 13 dc) [55]
49) 27 dc (... as 25 dc, ^, 1 dc), -, 6 dc, -, 6 dc, -, 10 dc [52]
50) 23 dc, {-, 5 dc} 3 times, 1 sc. Break yarn (7 st left unworked) [49]
51) Join by making next st in 22th st from start marker (21 st left unworked). 1 sc, 1 dc, -, 12 dc , -, 10 dc (... as 2 dc, ^, 7 dc) [47]
52) 24 dc (... as 21 dc, ^, 2 dc), -, 6 dc, -, 6 dc, -, 5 dc [44]
53) 20 dc, -, 5 dc, -, 5 dc, -, 7 dc, 1 sc. Break yarn (0 st left unworked) [41]
54) Join by making next st in 17th st from start marker (16 st left unworked). 1 sc, 6 dc, -, 7 dc , -, 7 dc (... as 6 dc, ^) [39]
55) 23 dc (... as 16 dc, ^, 6 dc), -, 5 dc, -, 7 dc [37]
56) 20 dc, -, 9 dc, -, 1 sc. Break yarn (3 st left unworked) [35]
57) Join by making next st in 20th st from start marker (19 st left unworked). 1 sc, 1 dc, -, 2 dc , -, 2 dc, -, 4 dc (... as ^, 3 dc) [32]
Stuff the body up to here, and from now on keep stuffing as you go. The head needs to be stuffed firmly but the body can be softer.
58) 18 dc, - (into dc and sc below), 10 dc, - [30]
59) 19 dc, -, 6 dc, -, 1 dc [28]
60) 22 dc, -, 4 dc [27]
61) -, 16 dc, -, 7 dc [25]
62) 20 dc, -, 3 dc [24]
63) -, 14 dc, -, 6 dc [22]
64) 17 dc, -, 3 dc [21]
65) 15 dc, -, 4 dc [20]
66) 1 dc, -, 17 dc [19]
67) 19 dc [19]
The start marker has now worked so far around that it's on the dinosaur's back instead of its belly! We're going to move it forward in the direction of stitching by 8 stitches. Once you've done that, crochet up to the new position by doing 8 dc.
68) 5 dc, -, 7 dc, 1 sc. Break yarn (4 st left unworked) [18]
69) Join by making next st in 5th st from start marker (4 st left unworked). 1 sc, 6 dc, -, 5 dc (... as ^, 4 dc) [17]
70) 17 dc (... as 4 dc, ^, 12 dc) [17]
71) 7 dc, -, 8 dc [16]
72) 9 dc, -, 5 dc [15]
73) 15 dc [15]
74) 8 dc, -, 5 dc [14]
75) 14 dc [14]
76) 6 dc, -, 6 dc [13]
77) 9 dc, -, 2 dc [12]
78) 8 dc, -, 2 dc [11]
79) 11 dc [11]
Time to move the start marker one last time. Move it forward in the direction of stitching by 3 stitches, to what was previously stitch number 4. Once you've done that, crochet up to the new position by doing 3 dc.
80) 5 dc, -, 4 dc [10]
81) 4 dc, -, 4 dc [9]
82) 6 dc, -, 1 dc [8]
83) 8 dc [8]
84) -, 6 dc [7]
85) 3 dc, -, 2 dc [6]
86) 6 dc [6]
87) {-} 3 times [3]
Sew up the tail end.
Stegosaurus Feet
Make 4 in main colour.
1) Magic ring, 6 dc [6]
2) {+} 6 times [12]
3) {1 dc, +} 6 times [18]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end.
4) 18 dc into back loops of previous row. [18]
5-8) 18 dc [18]
9) 3 sc. Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.
Stegosaurus Armour
In accent colour. The plates are numbered from 1 to 7, starting at the head end.
Plate #3 (make 2)
1) Magic ring, 5 dc [5]
2) +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, + [8]
3) +, 2 dc, +, 2 dc, +, 1 dc [11]
4) +, 5 dc, +, 4 dc, [13]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end.
5) 1 dc, +, 6 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 2 dc [16]
6) 1 dc, +, 7 dc, +, 6 dc [18]
7) 5 dc, +, 12 dc [19]
8) 1 dc, +, 9 dc, +, 7 dc [21]
9) 21 dc [21]
10) 2 dc, -, 9 dc, -, 6 dc [19]
11) 1 dc, -, 8 dc, -, 6 dc [17]
12) 1 dc, -, 3 dc, -, 2 dc, -, 5 dc [14]
13) -, 5 dc, -, 5 dc [12]
14) -, 4 dc, -, 4 dc [10]
15) -, 3 dc, -, 3 dc [8]
16) 1 sc. Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.
Plate #4 (make 2)
1) Magic ring, 5 dc [5]
2) +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, + [8]
3) +, 2 dc, +, 2 dc, +, 1 dc [11]
4) +, 5 dc, +, 4 dc, [13]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end.
5) +, 6 dc, +, 5 dc, [15]
6) 1 dc, +, 7 dc, +, 5 dc [17]
7) 1 dc, +, 8 dc, +, 6 dc [19]
8) 16 dc, +, 2 dc [20]
9) 1 dc, -, 8 dc, -, 7 dc [18]
10) -, 7 dc, -, 7 dc [16]
11) -, 6 dc, -, 6 dc [14]
12) -, 5 dc, -, 1 dc, -, 2 dc [11]
13) -, 4 dc, -, 2 dc, 1 sc [9]
Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.
Plate #2, #5 (make 4)
1) Magic ring, 5 dc [5]
2) +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, + [8]
3) +, 3 dc, +, 3 dc [10]
4) +, 4 dc, +, 4 dc [12]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end.
5) 1 dc, +, 5 dc, +, 4 dc [14]
6) 4 dc, +, 9 dc [15]
7) 15 dc [15]
8) 1 dc, -, 2 dc, -, 2 dc, -, 4 dc [12]
9) 1 dc, -, 4 dc, -, 3 dc [10]
10) -, 3 dc, -, -, 1 sc [7]
Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.
Plate #1, #6 (make 4)
1) Magic ring, 5 dc [5]
2) 1 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc [7]
3) 1 dc, +, +, 1 dc, +, 2 dc [10]
4) 1 dc, +, 8 dc [11]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end.
5) 7 dc, +, 3 dc [12]
6) {1 dc, -} 3 times, 3 dc [9]
7) -, 2 dc, -, 3 dc [7]
8) -, 1 dc, -, 1 dc, 1 sc [5]
Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.
Plate #7 (make 2)
1) Magic ring, 5 dc [5]
2) 1 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc [7]
3) +, 2 dc, +, 3 dc [9]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end.
4) -, 2 dc, -, 3 dc [7]
5) -, 1 dc, -, 1 dc, 1 sc [5]
Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.
Tail Spike (make 4)
1) Magic ring, 3 dc [3]
2) 1 dc, +, 1 dc [4]
3) +, 3 dc [5]
4) 4 dc, + [6]
5) 2 dc, +, 3 dc [7]
6) 7 dc [7]
7) 7 dc [7]
8) 2 sc. Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.
Flatten the plates and sew them along the spine of the animal in two rows using the picture as a reference. Sew the four tail spikes into a bunch such that the bottoms of the spikes are left open and they're arranged at the corners of a square. Sew this bunch on at the end of the tail, by stitching in a square around the base of the bunch. Stuff the feet and sew them to the base of the stegosaurus; however don't over-stuff the feet or the soles will become concave and make it difficult for the dinosaur to stand up! Embroider the eyes.
Update 6 July 2013:
I realise now that some bits ARE a bit confusing! So, I added some notes which have since been moved to join the rest of the instructions above.
Update 8 July 2013:
Some errors fixed in pattern for feet. Thank you chippaliz on Ravelry!
Update 11 July 2013:
Correction to plate 4, row 8.
Update 18 July 2013:
Correction to body pattern row 20. Thank you Lauren S!
