Monday, 1 July 2013

Free pattern: hello stegosaurus

As edited on 20th June 2014:
Fixed row 15 on plate #3, thanks Aparna!


Stegosaurus is worked mostly in double crochet (or, single crochet if you're from the US) and in continuous rounds like a spiral.  To get a uniform look on the stegosaurus body there's lots of stopping, breaking yarn and re-starting.  This is to avoid the different "look" of the stitches caused by changing direction or using a bigger stitch (e.g. trebles).  All these shenanigans mean that you can't pull your work down easily and re-use the wool, so use cheap stuff or count stitches like crazy!  Almost no two rounds are the same, and for that I apologise.  I've been explicit about where to place increases and decreases so that they're evenly spaced psuedo-randomly and they're not too obvious on the finished toy.  It is true that this pattern is complicated, but not needlessly so - if it were worked in the standard continuous spiral manner, the head and tail would appear higher up the body.  The method in this pattern allows the formation of a "hump" along the spine of the toy.

When working on the body, if you break yarn or join on again then you can catch the spare yarn "tail" into every other stitch behind your work as you stitch past the join.  This avoids a tonne of ends to sew in, and possibly makes the toy a bit more robust.

I recommend using a bunch of safety pins as stitch-markers to indicate the beginning of the round, and to mark out any stitches you think you might loose or ignore accidentally when you pass them on the next round.  YOU MUST KEEP TRACK OF THE BEGINNING OF EACH ROUND or your life will be very hard!  The marker should be placed in the first stitch of the round.  On just a few occasions I'll tell you to re-position this start marker further along the round.

Please contact me if you find an error and I'll be pleased to correct it!  I hope you enjoy the toy and will consider following my blog.  Please don't sell this pattern or items based on it - it's for your personal enjoyment only.

***UK CROCHET TERMS THROUGHOUT!***

To change to American crochet terms

Just copy the text on this page into your favourite text editor and do a find & replace to change sc->sl st and dc ->sc (in that order) and colour -> color ;-) and you’re ready to go stateside! Hoorah!

Positioning the start marker

The stitch with the marker in is “stitch 1”, and I always count from the marker. You just move the stitch marker up each round: when you get to the marker, take it out of the stitch it’s in, make that stitch, and place it into the stitch you just made. (The only time you move the marker in a different way is in rows 67 and 79.

After each "round", you will work your last stitch into the stitch right before the marker, or else earlier (if you see the "break yarn" instruction).  You will never blithely continue past the marker in a round - if you find yourself doing this then it's a sign you've made a counting error somewhere.  If you add up the number of stitches involved in each row instruction, you will see they exactly add up to the total (given in square brackets at the end of each row).  I've been very careful to check the mathematical accuracy of this pattern as I wrote it, so you really can rely on the pattern to help you spot your counting errors.

Re-joining the yarn in the next round

Some row instructions are a bit opaque. I'm going to explain the ones where you join the wool in again, using row 19 as an example:

19) Join by making next st in 8th st from start marker (7 st left unworked). 1 sc, 4 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 13 dc (... as 3 dc, ^, 9 dc) [33] 

You start counting at the marker (the stitch that the marker is placed in is called "stitch 1", the next stitch is "stitch 2" and so on) and count in the direction you're stitching. In the case of row 19, you count up to the 8th stitch and join the wool in there. So, that's the 8th stitch after the marker. The 1st stitch (with marker in) is left unworked, and so are the next 6 stitches after it, which is what I mean by "7 stitches left unworked". Then you do 1 sc, 4 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 13 dc. The sc in this instruction is into the stitch where you just joined the yarn ("stitch 8"). The bit in parenthesis "(... as 3 dc, ^, 9 dc)" explains that the 13 dc are made into 3 dc, then 1 sc, then 9 dc on the row before. You don't need to know that, but it might help to check your stitch numbers are correct! So, adding up stitch numbers on row 19, you should have:

7 unworked & 1 sc & 4 dc & inc & 1 dc & inc & 1 dc & inc & 13 dc = 33 stitches in total, into the 30 stitches on the row before (because we did 3 increases this row).

Extra help

If you are struggling with stitch counting or yarn joining/breaking, I've provided some photo tutorials here.

Keep asking questions in the comments if it's still confusing! :-)  I usually get an e-mail notification and will endeavour to respond to you.  I know this is a difficult and non-standard pattern, and no, short-rows will not produce the same effect (I tried).  However, before commenting please make sure you have read ALL the above text twice and also read through the comments already made on this post as your question may have already been answered.


To shorten the instructions, I'll use the following abbreviations:
sc = UK single crochet
dc = UK double crochet
+ = dc inc (make two dc into one stitch on the row below)
- = dc dec (dc two stitches together)
^ = dc into a sc on the row below.  (I indicate these as a special stitch only to help you keep track of where in the round you are.)
Stitch totals at the end of each row are indicated in square brackets as [total].
Repeated units are inside curly braces, e.g. "{3 dc, +} 3 times" would mean: "3 dc, inc, 3 dc, inc, 3 dc, inc".

To find out how to do a magic ring, see this tutorial: clicky here.

You will need:
Double knitting wool in 2 colours.  I used probably about 50g or less of the main colour.  I wish I had weighed how much exactly...
3mm crochet hook
scissors
tapestry needle for sewing in ends
safety pins as stitch markers
polyester stuffing

Stegosaurus Body


In main colour.

1) Magic ring, 6 dc [6]
2) {+} 6 times [12]
3) {3 dc, +} 3 times [15]
4) 2 dc, +, 2 dc, +, 3 dc, +, 3 dc, +, 1 dc [19]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end.  Nobody wants stuffing oozing out of a dinosaur nose.
5) {5 dc, +} 3 times, 1 dc [22]
6) 5 dc, +, 16 dc [23]
7) 17 dc, +, 5 dc [24]
8) 24 dc [24]
9) 24 dc [24]
10) 24 dc [24]
11) {6 dc, -} 3 times [21]
12) 3 dc, -, 4 dc, -, 3 dc, -, 3 dc, - [17]
13) 6 dc, -, 3 dc, 1 sc.  Break yarn (5 st left unworked in this round) [16]
14) Join by making next st in 2nd st from start marker (1 st left unworked).  1 sc, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 2 dc, +, 7 dc (... as 1 dc, ^, 5 dc) [19]
15) 3 dc (... as 1 dc, ^, 1dc), +, 3 dc, +, 3 dc, +, 1 dc, 1 sc.  Break yarn (5 st left unworked) [22]
16) Join by making next st in 2nd st from start marker (1 st left unworked).  1 sc, 4 dc, +, 4 dc, +, 3 dc, 1 sc.  Break yarn (6 st left unworked in this round) [24]
17) Join by making next st in 5th st from start marker (4 st left unworked).  1 sc, 1 dc, +, {2 dc, +} 3 times, 8 dc (... as 1 dc, ^, ^, 5 dc) [28]
18) 8 dc (... as 1 dc, ^, 2 dc, ^, 3 dc), +, 8 dc, +, 1 sc.  Break yarn (9 st left unworked) [30]
19) Join by making next st in 8th st from start marker (7 st left unworked).  1 sc, 4 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 13 dc (... as 3 dc, ^, 9 dc) [33]
20) 12 dc (... as 7 dc, ^, 4 dc), +, 3 dc, +, 3 dc, +, 1 sc.  Break yarn (11 st left unworked) [36]
21) Join by making next st in 10th st from start marker (9 st left unworked).  1 sc, +, 4 dc, +, 4 dc, +, 15 dc (... as 3 dc, ^, 11 dc) [39]
22) 16 dc (... as 9 dc, ^, 6 dc), +, 3 dc, +, 3 dc, +, 1 sc.  Break yarn (13 st left unworked) [42]
23) Join by making next st in 14th st from start marker (13 st left unworked).  1 sc, +, 4 dc, +, 4 dc, +, 17 dc (... as 3 dc, ^, 13 dc) [45]
24) 19 dc (... as 13 dc, ^, 5 dc), +, 2 dc, +, 2 dc, +, 1 sc.  Break yarn (18 st left unworked) [48]
25) Join by making next st in 20th st from start marker (19 st left unworked).  1 sc, {+, 2 dc} 3 times, + (in sc below), 18 dc [52]
26) 26 dc, +, 25 dc [53]
27) 13 dc, +, 5 dc, +, 10 dc, 1 sc.  Break yarn (22 st left unworked) [55]
28) Join by making next st in 27th st from start marker (26 st left unworked).  1 sc, +, 3 dc, +, 5 dc (... as ^, 4 dc), +, 5 dc, +, 11 dc [59]
29) 17 dc, +, 27 dc, +, 13 dc [61]
30) 27 dc, +, 4 dc, +, 4 dc, +, 23 dc [64]
31) 24 dc, +, 18 dc, +, 20 dc [66]
32) 21 dc, +, 26 dc, +, 17 dc [68]
33) 33 dc, +, 6 dc, +, 27 dc [70]
34) 32 dc, +, 37 dc [71]
35) 44 dc, +, 26 dc [72]
36) 54 dc, 1 sc.  Break yarn (17 st left unworked) [72]
37) Join by making next st in 25th st from start marker (24 st left unworked).  1 sc, 14 dc, +, 32 dc (... as 14 dc, ^, 17 dc) [73]
38) 73 dc (... as 24 dc, ^, 48 dc) [73]
39) We have passed the widest part of the body, so begin to decrease.  39 dc, -, 32 dc [72]
40) 30 dc, -, 40 dc [71]
41) 48 dc, -, 21 dc [70]
42) 39 dc, -, 29 dc [69]
43) 34 dc, -, 7 dc, -, 24 dc [67]
44) 31 dc, -, 11 dc, -, 21 dc [65]
45) 27 dc, -, 8 dc, -, 9 dc, -, 15 dc [62]
46) 32 dc, -, 6 dc, -, 20 dc [60]
47) 26 dc, -, 7 dc, -, 7 dc, -, 1 sc.  Break yarn (13 st left unworked) [57]
48) Join by making next st in 26th st from start marker (25 st left unworked).  1 sc, 3 dc, -, 7 dc , -, 17 dc (... as 3 dc, ^, 13 dc) [55]
49) 27 dc (... as 25 dc, ^, 1 dc), -, 6 dc, -, 6 dc, -, 10 dc [52]
50) 23 dc, {-, 5 dc} 3 times, 1 sc.  Break yarn (7 st left unworked) [49]
51) Join by making next st in 22th st from start marker (21 st left unworked).  1 sc, 1 dc, -, 12 dc , -, 10 dc (... as 2 dc, ^, 7 dc) [47]
52) 24 dc (... as 21 dc, ^, 2 dc), -, 6 dc, -, 6 dc, -, 5 dc [44]
53) 20 dc, -, 5 dc, -, 5 dc, -, 7 dc, 1 sc.  Break yarn (0 st left unworked) [41]
54) Join by making next st in 17th st from start marker (16 st left unworked).  1 sc, 6 dc, -, 7 dc , -, 7 dc (... as 6 dc, ^) [39]
55) 23 dc (... as 16 dc, ^, 6 dc), -, 5 dc, -, 7 dc [37]
56) 20 dc, -, 9 dc, -, 1 sc.  Break yarn (3 st left unworked) [35]
57) Join by making next st in 20th st from start marker (19 st left unworked).  1 sc, 1 dc, -, 2 dc , -, 2 dc, -, 4 dc (... as ^, 3 dc) [32]
Stuff the body up to here, and from now on keep stuffing as you go.  The head needs to be stuffed firmly but the body can be softer. 
58) 18 dc, - (into dc and sc below), 10 dc, - [30]
59) 19 dc, -, 6 dc, -, 1 dc [28]
60) 22 dc, -, 4 dc [27]
61) -, 16 dc, -, 7 dc [25]
62) 20 dc, -, 3 dc [24]
63) -, 14 dc, -, 6 dc [22]
64) 17 dc, -, 3 dc [21]
65) 15 dc, -, 4 dc [20]
66) 1 dc, -, 17 dc [19]
67) 19 dc [19]
The start marker has now worked so far around that it's on the dinosaur's back instead of its belly!  We're going to move it forward in the direction of stitching by 8 stitches.  Once you've done that, crochet up to the new position by doing 8 dc.
68) 5 dc, -, 7 dc, 1 sc.  Break yarn (4 st left unworked) [18]
69) Join by making next st in 5th st from start marker (4 st left unworked).  1 sc, 6 dc, -, 5 dc (... as ^, 4 dc) [17]
70) 17 dc (... as 4 dc, ^, 12 dc) [17]
71) 7 dc, -,  8 dc [16]
72) 9 dc, -,  5 dc [15]
73) 15 dc [15]
74) 8 dc, -,  5 dc [14]
75) 14 dc [14]
76) 6 dc, -,  6 dc [13]
77) 9 dc, -,  2 dc [12]
78) 8 dc, -,  2 dc [11]
79) 11 dc [11]
Time to move the start marker one last time.  Move it forward in the direction of stitching by 3 stitches, to what was previously stitch number 4.  Once you've done that, crochet up to the new position by doing 3 dc.
80) 5 dc, -,  4 dc [10]
81) 4 dc, -,  4 dc [9]
82) 6 dc, -,  1 dc [8]
83) 8 dc [8]
84) -, 6 dc [7]
85) 3 dc, -,  2 dc [6]
86) 6 dc [6]
87) {-} 3 times [3]
Sew up the tail end.

Stegosaurus Feet


Make 4 in main colour.

1) Magic ring, 6 dc [6]
2) {+} 6 times [12]
3) {1 dc, +} 6 times [18]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end.
4) 18 dc into back loops of previous row. [18]
5-8) 18 dc [18]
9) 3 sc.  Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.

Stegosaurus Armour


In accent colour.  The plates are numbered from 1 to 7, starting at the head end.

Plate #3 (make 2)


1) Magic ring, 5 dc [5]
2) +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, + [8]
3) +, 2 dc, +, 2 dc, +, 1 dc [11]
4) +, 5 dc, +, 4 dc, [13]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end.
5) 1 dc, +, 6 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 2 dc [16]
6) 1 dc, +, 7 dc, +, 6 dc [18]
7) 5 dc, +, 12 dc [19]
8) 1 dc, +, 9 dc, +, 7 dc [21]
9) 21 dc [21]
10) 2 dc, -, 9 dc, -, 6 dc [19]
11) 1 dc, -, 8 dc, -, 6 dc [17]
12) 1 dc, -, 3 dc, -, 2 dc, -, 5 dc [14]
13) -, 5 dc, -, 5 dc [12]
14) -, 4 dc, -, 4 dc [10]
15) -, 3 dc, -, 3 dc [8]
16) 1 sc.  Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.

Plate #4 (make 2)


1) Magic ring, 5 dc [5]
2) +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, + [8]
3) +, 2 dc, +, 2 dc, +, 1 dc [11]
4) +, 5 dc, +, 4 dc, [13]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end.
5) +, 6 dc, +, 5 dc, [15]
6) 1 dc, +, 7 dc, +, 5 dc [17]
7) 1 dc, +, 8 dc, +, 6 dc [19]
8) 16 dc, +, 2 dc [20]
9) 1 dc, -, 8 dc, -, 7 dc [18]
10) -, 7 dc, -, 7 dc [16]
11) -, 6 dc, -, 6 dc [14]
12) -, 5 dc, -, 1 dc, -, 2 dc [11]
13) -, 4 dc, -, 2 dc, 1 sc [9]
Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.

Plate #2, #5 (make 4)


1) Magic ring, 5 dc [5]
2) +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, + [8]
3) +, 3 dc, +, 3 dc [10]
4) +, 4 dc, +, 4 dc [12]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end.
5) 1 dc, +, 5 dc, +, 4 dc [14]
6) 4 dc, +, 9 dc [15]
7) 15 dc [15]
8) 1 dc, -, 2 dc, -, 2 dc, -, 4 dc [12]
9) 1 dc, -, 4 dc, -, 3 dc [10]
10) -, 3 dc, -, -, 1 sc [7]
Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.

Plate #1, #6 (make 4)


1) Magic ring, 5 dc [5]
2) 1 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc [7]
3) 1 dc, +, +, 1 dc, +, 2 dc [10]
4) 1 dc, +, 8 dc [11]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end.
5) 7 dc, +, 3 dc [12]
6) {1 dc, -} 3 times, 3 dc [9]
7) -, 2 dc, -, 3 dc [7]
8) -, 1 dc, -, 1 dc, 1 sc [5]
Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.

Plate #7 (make 2)


1) Magic ring, 5 dc [5]
2) 1 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc [7]
3) +, 2 dc, +, 3 dc [9]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end.
4) -, 2 dc, -, 3 dc [7]
5) -, 1 dc, -, 1 dc, 1 sc [5]
Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.

Tail Spike (make 4)


1) Magic ring, 3 dc [3]
2) 1 dc, +, 1 dc [4]
3) +, 3 dc [5]
4) 4 dc, + [6]
5) 2 dc, +, 3 dc [7]
6) 7 dc [7]
7) 7 dc [7]
8) 2 sc.  Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.

Flatten the plates and sew them along the spine of the animal in two rows using the picture as a reference.  Sew the four tail spikes into a bunch such that the bottoms of the spikes are left open and they're arranged at the corners of a square.  Sew this bunch on at the end of the tail, by stitching in a square around the base of the bunch.  Stuff the feet and sew them to the base of the stegosaurus; however don't over-stuff the feet or the soles will become concave and make it difficult for the dinosaur to stand up!  Embroider the eyes.




Update 6 July 2013:


I realise now that some bits ARE a bit confusing! So, I added some notes which have since been moved to join the rest of the instructions above.

Update 8 July 2013:


Some errors fixed in pattern for feet.  Thank you chippaliz on Ravelry!

Update 11 July 2013:


Correction to plate 4, row 8.

Update 18 July 2013:


Correction to body pattern row 20.  Thank you Lauren S!

80 comments:

  1. Stegosaurus!!!! HELLO THERE!!!!!
    Awesome job, Captain Button :)

    ReplyDelete
  2. P.S. If you prefer US crochet terms: Just do a find & replace on the text to change sc->sl st and dc ->sc (in that order) and colour -> color ;-) and you’re ready to go stateside! Hoorah! :-)

    ReplyDelete
  3. Your stegosaurus is ADORABLE. I'm making him right now. However, I'm confused by this instruction and ones like it.

    14) Join by making next st in 2nd st from start marker (1 st left unworked). 1 sc, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 2 dc, +, 7 dc (... as 1 dc, ^, 5 dc) [19]

    ReplyDelete
  4. I don't understand exactly where I should start the next row. Before my marker? After my marker? 1 stitch before my marker? 1 stitch after my marker?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sorry for the confusion! I just added some more notes to the post to explain this, using row 19 as an example. I hope it will clear things up! In the case of row 14, the sc (and indeed the yarn join) is made into "stitch 2", which is the stitch after the start marker when you count in the direction of stitching. The 1 stitch left unworked is the one with the marker in. Glad you like the finished object and hope the pattern works for you! :)

      Delete
  5. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  6. Hey I found a problem with a row, (the rest is going really well) on row 20 you say: 12 dc (... as 7 dc, ^, 4 dc), 3 dc, +, 3 dc, +, 1 sc. Break yarn (11 st left unworked) [36]
    However this does not add up to 36 but 34. So I added an increase after the 12 dc. I did 12 dc, +, 3 dc,+, 3dc, +, 1sc with 11 unworked, which is 36. Hopefully this helps. If you ever need a pattern tester for crochet feel free to add me on ravelry as sayanythinggirl.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Well spotted! You are quite correct, it should read:
      20) 12 dc (... as 7 dc, ^, 4 dc), +, 3 dc, +, 3 dc, +, 1 sc. Break yarn (11 st left unworked) [36]
      Many thanks for finding this, and for the kind pattern testing offer! I might take you up on that at some point ;-)
      Hope the pattern works up okay for you! Must be getting to the end of the typos soon....! :-)

      Delete
  7. Hello, this is so cute, and my daughter picked it out for her birthday :), so I'll be making it soon. Thank you for sharing this. Hope you don't mind, I featured this on my blog today as the "pattern of the day" http://quarteredheartcrochet.blogspot.com/2013/08/pattern-of-day-inspired-by-3-year-old.html

    ReplyDelete
  8. Looove your stegosaurus!!! My 7 yo Jordan has wanted to be a paleontologist since he was 2. He's determined to find the world's last dinosaur. Too sweet. I'm making this for him. Running into a lil trouble though. It seems every time I detach & reattach... I have spacing that I don't complete in the following rounds. Do you follow what I mean? Please help... I think my count starts going off around round 17. Thank you & thank you for a lovely pattern. Quite lifelike & detailed. :-) :-* O:-) ;-) B-) :-D

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Awww your son sounds cute!

      When you detach and re-attach the yarn, there are supposed to be stitches in the round that are not worked. For example, in row 17:

      17) Join by making next st in 5th st from start marker (4 st left unworked). 1 sc, 1 dc, +, {2 dc, +} 3 times, 8 dc (... as 1 dc, ^, ^, 5 dc) [28]

      So in this row, the first 4 stitches (including the one with the marker in) are not worked. At the end of the row, you'll have 28 stitches in the round: 4 of these will not be worked, while the other 24 will have been worked. Does that make sense? Then in round 18 you do this:

      18) 8 dc (... as 1 dc, ^, 2 dc, ^, 3 dc), +, 8 dc, +, 1 sc. Break yarn (9 st left unworked) [30]

      So the first 21 stitches in the round are all worked, but the last 9 are not.

      The result is that you build up more rows of stitching along the animal's spine, and fewer rows under its belly. This gives it it's shaping.

      Does that make sense with the problem you are having? If you're still confused, try coming for a chat in the Button Ship Ravelry Group here: http://www.ravelry.com/discuss/the-button-ship/topics

      Delete
  9. Will try it again, that way. Crossing my fingers... Again thank you. It truly is the most realistic looking crocheted dinosaur I've come across. ;-) *Way better than most patterns I've seen. Smh, the majority of them actually want you to pay for a halfway looking Dino. You've really saved my day! Thanks so much, Dee.

    ReplyDelete
  10. Hi again. I put the dinosaur down until I had more patience and a more open mind.Turns out your stitch-count is precise and I'm loving it! I'm at 27 using an N hook and 3 strands of yarn. All of the yarn from Michael's.

    ReplyDelete
  11. This is the first time I have crotcheted anything. I'm a knitter. By following the excellent instructions I've achieved a fabulous result! So now I shall have a go at more items. Very relaxing pursuit!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Wow, well done! That's not an easy pattern to pick as your first project so I'm impressed!

      Delete
  12. Thank you but it's all due to your precise instructions - and lots of counting!

    ReplyDelete
  13. Thanks much!
    Generally speaking, I simply wing it (or write a pattern as I go along)- but I found myself short on time, and rather tired, looking for a pattern for plates/flippers... which lead me here.
    I haven't exactly used them as they were intended, but they fit the bill for what I needed. Without any brainpower required! That, I must tell you, is a happy relief.

    Quick question- they worked so well, that I'll likely use the #3 plate as a part of a hat.
    Would you mind it being published at some point, with full attribution (and a pointer back to this blog post, of course)?
    I'd rather have your blessing, than use it without your permission, even with attribution.

    Thanks again,
    Cheers!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Gail! Can we have a conversation about it? Can you mail me at alice.h.burrell [at] gmail dot com, or PM me on Ravelry (TeaAndCakey)?

      Delete
  14. I am a bit confused. I know that in the UK a double crochet is a single crochet in the US what is a single crochet? I can find no convertion for this..there doesn't seem to be a single crochet in UK terms. Thanks so much.
    Barb

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Not to worry Barb! Help is at hand, as I have been asked this question before. See this post: http://thebuttonship.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/stitch-comparisons-or-why-i-prefer.html
      There is no convention in the UK (as far as I can tell) about whether to use "sc" or "slst" and they are used interchangeably to refer to a US "slst". I've provided a handy table at the above link... :-)

      Delete
    2. So I use a slip stitch when it says sc?
      Thanks so much.

      Delete
    3. If that's what name you know it as, then yes!

      The terms "sc" and "slst" are both used in the UK to mean the same thing. The use of "sc" is more traditional, whereas "slst" is a more modern usage. If you look up some conversion resourses, you’ll find both are given.

      Ahhh it's like pronunciation of "scone"...!

      Delete
  15. Sorry, but I don't quite get the part "(... as 1 dc, ^, 5 dc) ", from row 14 on... Maybe is because I'm Spanish? When you say "... as", what does it mean? Thank you in advance.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello there Diarios! Read the explanatory notes at the end of the pattern, in particular "Re-joining the yarn in the next round" which uses row 19 as an example. I quote from this:

      "The bit in parenthesis "(... as 3 dc, ^, 9 dc)" explains that the 13 dc are made into 3 dc, then 1 sc, then 9 dc on the row before. You don't need to know that, but it might help to check your stitch numbers are correct!"

      I hope you will find it well explained if you read these notes in detail. (I know there is a lot of text!) Hope that helps. Have fun making your dinosaur!

      Delete
    2. ahhhhh: I see!!!
      Thank you! I had read that part, but I had misunderstood it all the same!!! My mistake. Thank you very much for sharing your creativity and for being so kind and helpful.
      Best!!

      Delete
  16. Pleaaaase help me... I really love the dinosaur but it's not working for me.. I tried it a million times but I can not find where my counting goes wrong.. The problems start from the moment I have to re-join the yarn. Every round there is one stitch to much. I think it's because I replace my stitchmarker to the wrong stitch in the new row. Can you tell me in which stitch I have to replace the marker in an example? I really hope you understand me, because my English is not that good.. ^^'

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm a little confused about what could be going wrong for you.

      At the start of most rounds, you have to remove the "start marker" in order to crochet into the stitch it was stuck in, and then you put the marker straight back into the stitch you just made. (See notes "Positioning the start marker" at the end of the pattern.) So there is little opportunity to accidentally make an extra stitch at this point. This marker movement has to happen every round where you need to crochet into "stitch 1", so if this is causing you problems then you'd get extra stitches long before you got to the "re-join yarn" instruction. Also, there is no need to move the marker on rounds where you have to "re-join yarn", because you don't need to crochet into stitch 1.

      If you are having issues only on the rounds when you re-join the yarn, here's what might be going wrong, using round 19 as an example.

      In the case of row 19, you count up to the 8th stitch and join the wool in there. So, that's the 8th stitch after the marker. The 1st stitch (with marker in) is left unworked, and so are the next 6 stitches after it, which is what I mean by "7 stitches left unworked". Then you do 1 sc, 4 dc, etc. When you have finished row 19, you should be able to count 33 stitches in total. If you count 34, the error might arise around where you made the 1 sc. You might accidentally count the stitch that the sc is made into, as well as the sc itself. That's a pretty easy mistake to make as the sc is pulled to one side and exposes the stitch below it a little where you join the yarn. That would lead you to think there is one stitch too many, and if you crocheted into the stitch below the sc (by accident) as well as the sc on round 20, you'd definitely end up with that extra stitch for real! Also my instructions wouldn't add up, so you'd end up fudging round 20 anyway to make it work - your clue that something has gone wrong. (See notes "Re-joining the yarn in the next round" for a full explanation of round 19.)

      If you didn't spot the extra help notes at the end of the pattern after the images, they are worth a read. Lots of people don't notice them: I should move them! :-)

      I hope this makes sense? Perhaps it might help? Sorry I have to guess where it's going wrong for you. Your English is excellent though!

      Delete
    2. Sorry, that was a long reply. In summary:
      I doubt that it's your "start marker" that is causing you trouble, I suspect you might be counting stitches wrong near your 1 sc. :-)

      Delete
    3. Ah thank you!! I already read the extra instructions and al the comments below but that didn't help me out.. But your comment did! De second thing you describe was the problem, I made two stitches when I reached the sc... I'm so happy now, this is going to be a birthday present and I was a little scared I couldn't finish it in time (or is it 'on time'??) ! Thanks again!

      Delete
    4. I think "in time" or "on time" are both good usage! ;-) I'm so glad (and relieved) I could help you. I really must update my pattern notes and mention this sort of thing - it was a problem I had sometimes too!
      Glad you like the pattern: sorry it's a bit complicated. Happy crocheting! :-)

      Delete
  17. Maybe i'm stupid but i don't understand what i should do when i'ts written "Break yarn (5 st left unworked in this round)"?? mayby someone can explain me this...?Please:):):)

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    1. "Break yarn" means what it says (get those scissors, cut the yarn leaving a tail of a few inches). "5st left unworked in this round" means that there are 5 stitches left from the previous round that you have not made a new stitch into on this round. So, at the end of round 12 you have 17 stitches. When you are starting round 13, you make 6 dc, a decrease, 3 dc and 1 sc = 11 new stitches made, involving 12 stitches from the previous round (you made a decrease over two of them). Then you break the yarn, leaving the last 5 stitches from the previous round unworked. After this round you have 11 new stitches, plus the 5 left unworked = 16 stitches.

      Hope this helps.

      Delete
  18. Thank you so much for this pattern, I had to take him out and count count count, but your tutorial was great and he's finally finished! Thanks so much!

    ReplyDelete
  19. I love your dinosaur the Stegasurus just wondering how big it is.Thanks for sharing the pattern..'Im really excited about trying it..

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    Replies
    1. Hello there! It's about 12 inches long, see the Ravelry page for the design here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/hello-stegosaurus
      All the best!

      Delete
  20. please let me know how big the stegasaurus is thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. "Cuddly stegosaurus pattern, approx 12” long"

      That's what the description on Ravelry is.

      Delete
  21. I must be extremely dense, but I'm still new to amigurumi. When I'm at row 14, and you have the first break yarn. My stitch counter should be moved to the first stitch after the sc from the previous round, right? Or am I incorrect? Because I keep coming up one stitch short.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The techniques used in this pattern are very non-standard, so don't feel bad about that! I've not seen them in other amigurumi.
      With regards to moving the stitch marker, please read the section above titled "Positioning the start marker". Nothing special is done with the marker in row 14. After completing row 14 you should be able to count 19 stitches: 1 unworked (which happens to be the one with the marker in), 1 sc where you joined the yarn in, then 17 dc stitches (some of which were created by your increases). Hope this helps.

      Delete
  22. Weird, my first comment didn't go through.

    But what I was saying is that I think I was having the issue that I was moving my stitch marker to the area of where I broke my yarn out of habit, so I think that's what was throwing me. But my question now is when I am starting the sc on that next round at the end of 13, beginning of 14, am I supposed to be using the tail of round 13 to start round 14 or should I just try and use an entire new length of yarn?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Ahh, that would do it! Your stitch marker position is independent of where you break (or don't break) your yarn!

      I personally just used a new length of yarn when I started again, but there is no reason you can't use your tail if you left it long enough and it suits you to do so. You don't always start again near your previous break, so it might sometimes be better to use new yarn otherwise you'll end up with loops of yarn crossing over inside your toy and making it hard to stuff.

      Delete
  23. This comment has been removed by the author.

    ReplyDelete
  24. Can you tell me how big this ends up? My youngest daughter is making one for my oldest daughter who is going to be on crew for a tall ship. She will have very limited space. Thanks for your help.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello there! It's about 12 inches long, see the Ravelry page for the design here: http://www.ravelry.com/patterns/library/hello-stegosaurus
      This question was also answered just two comments back!
      All the best to your daughter on her adventure!

      Delete
  25. Hi there, I love this pattern, but I'm making myself a little crazy. I haven't done too much crochet in the past, and I'm struggling with joining in the middle of the row. Could you please point me towards further instruction? I can't figure out how to get restarted.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello there!
      You don't mention what exactly you are struggling with, whether it's joining in the right location, or just the act of actually joining the yarn.
      There are several places you can try:
      1) Read and re-read the full instructions at the start of this pattern, particularly the section "Re-joining the yarn in the next round".
      2) Read through all the comments on this blog post to see if any of them sound like the problem you're having.
      3) Check out the crochet photo-tutorials here:
      http://thebuttonship.blogspot.co.uk/p/tutorials.html
      Including "Counting stitches" and "Joining yarn with a single crochet". The latter will be most useful if it's the actual method of joining you're struggling with.
      Any more questions, just post again here! (I get e-mail notification.)
      All the best!

      Delete
  26. Is there pictures or something for the break yarn part. I need to visually see what you mean. Im not very good at just reading and doing.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. http://thebuttonship.blogspot.co.uk/2013/11/crochet-tutorial-breaking-yarn-with-sc.html
      and other tutorials on
      http://thebuttonship.blogspot.co.uk/p/tutorials.html
      I'm going to add a link to these in the main instructions.
      Hope this helps!

      Delete
    2. Omgosh thank you. Nothing would show up when i tried searching for it.

      Delete
    3. No worries! The tutorials were made quite a bit after I'd posted the stegosaurus pattern, so I'd forgotten to link back to them! Thanks for the reminder - I've now updated the pattern. Glad it helped! :-)

      Delete
  27. Replies
    1. Please read the section entitled "To shorten the instructions, I'll use the following abbreviations".

      ^ = dc into a sc on the row below. (I indicate these as a special stitch only to help you keep track of where in the round you are.)

      :-)

      Delete
  28. Hi, I'm really sorry to bother, I've tried reading all the text and the comments again but I'm struggling to make sense of it all. I was wondering in rows 14 onwards am I supposed to be moving my stitch marker? I got up to row 18, but realised my stitch marker was still in the same place as the beginning of row 13 and I was beginning to develop a gap under the 'chin' of the head? Is this right? If not, should I be moving the stitch marker to the sc at the beginning of reattatching the yarn?

    Thanks in advance, sorry again! Love the pattern!
    xxx <3

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks for posting - your issue has not been covered before, so you are right to ask! And it is a good question.

      You move the marker whenever you find yourself crocheting into the stitch containing the marker. This is always called "stitch 1" in the round. When you get to the marker, take it out of the stitch it’s in, make that stitch, and place it into the stitch you just made.

      In row 13 you had to break your yarn before completing the round, leaving the last 5 st before the marker unworked. In row 14 you re-attach by making the first sc in the instruction into the 2nd stitch from the marker. 1 st is left unworked - this is the stitch that has your marker in it. Because you have not actually worked the stitch containing your marker then you just leave the marker in the same place for this round. As you begin to work round 14, you'll notice there is a "gap" of 6 un-worked stitches which you'll start work into again by the end of the round. By the end of round 14 you will have just worked the last st before the marker.

      Round 15 begins with 3 dc. The first of these is made into the stitch containing the marker, so you'll need to take it out of the stitch it’s in, make that stitch, and place it into the stitch you just made. The next dc is made into the sc you made at the start of round 14 (indicated by ^ in the pattern), and then there is one more dc before the first increase (+) and the round continues as written, ending in a yarn break before you reach the marker.

      Round 16 and 17 both begin with yarn joins a few stitches further on from the round, so the marker is left un-touched again until the start of round 18.

      In summary, by round 18 your round marker should be un-touched since round 15 (not 13 as you suggest). DO NOT move the marker into the sc when you join the yarn - rounds that start with "Join by..." should leave the marker untouched where it is. You are right that there is a "gap" developing under the chin - it's these gaps that give the animal its shaping, and allows a "bulge" to develop along its back. Without these "gaps", the result is a body which is rotationally symmetric about its axis - quite different from the photo!

      Hope this helps! Sorry it's such a weird method - sort of like short-rows in knitting, but without the direction reversal (because crochet stitches do not look the same on the reverse).

      :-)

      Delete
    2. Thank you so much for this detailed explanation! I had started my stegosaurus but decided I had moved my marketing wrong....I had not but originally but did when I tried to fix it! :O) I restarted it last night and hoped I'd find an answer in here somewhere and I did!! Now back to my dinosaur that I'm making for my granddaughter...she's going to love it!

      Delete
    3. Thank you so much for this detailed explanation! I had started my stegosaurus but decided I had moved my marketing wrong....I had not but originally but did when I tried to fix it! :O) I restarted it last night and hoped I'd find an answer in here somewhere and I did!! Now back to my dinosaur that I'm making for my granddaughter...she's going to love it!

      Delete
  29. Tried out this pattern. It came out really well!!

    https://dennicrafts.wordpress.com/2015/10/02/cute-stegosaurus/

    ReplyDelete
  30. Hi - could you explain to me what a "sc - UK single crochet" is? I've never heard of that before, I know that a sc in the USA is a UK double crochet?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hello Bethan!

      As the pattern says, "please make sure you have read ALL the above text twice and also read through the comments already made on this post as your question may have already been answered."

      If you read through the comments, you will find your question has already been answered here:
      http://thebuttonship.blogspot.co.uk/2013/07/free-pattern-hello-stegosaurus.html?showComment=1402520734703#c4610662952750250529

      ... in which I post a link to another post on the topic:
      http://thebuttonship.blogspot.co.uk/2014/01/stitch-comparisons-or-why-i-prefer.html

      Hope this helps!

      :-)

      Delete
    2. Hi Ali, thank you very much, i did look through them but not close enough apparently. thank you for clarifying those terms - i'd not heard of a slip st being called an sc before :)

      Delete
  31. Just wanted to say a big thank you for this pattern. I used ecru and light blue yarn and it turned out great. I think it's going to make a perfect gift for my friend's son!

    I've posted pics of the finished piece here if you are curious: https://ecrustate.wordpress.com/2016/01/20/sleepy-dino/

    Can't thank you enough! Was a good challenge and fun to make!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Thanks for your kind words - love your version! :-) x

      Delete
  32. Hello, I'm so excited to start this pattern. Since I'm new to amigamuri (not crochet though) and I can see this is a complicated pattern I've been going through it a few times before I actually start (and I've read all the comments, I hope I didn't miss this topic). This is tiny but in plate #3 I see that there are two row 12s identified. Is that just a typo or am I supposed to do something fancy with row 12 that I'm missing? My little man already picked out his stegosaurus colors and we're so excited to start. Thank you!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Wow, well spotted Breanne! Nobody has found that one before, despite almost 100 people making the stegosaurus already. Top marks for eagle-eyed proofreading! :-D Thanks! I have corrected the pattern.

      Hope you enjoy the pattern and sorry that it's a bit of a nightmare until you get the hang of it... :-S

      Delete
  33. Very cute! Thank you for sharing.

    ReplyDelete
  34. Okay, i just started this pattern and I am slightly confused. After the first yarn break when i'm joining again, do i join 2 stitches after the previous stitch marker or 2 stitches after the "new" (where I just finished off)?

    ReplyDelete
  35. Okay, i just started this pattern and I am slightly confused. After the first yarn break when i'm joining again, do i join 2 stitches after the previous stitch marker or 2 stitches after the "new" (where I just finished off)?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Please read the section entitled "Re-joining the yarn in the next round" which ought to answer your question.
      Thanks! :-)

      Delete
  36. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  37. Hi i'm on stegosaurus armor Row 15 some count is missing.! It says -,3,-,2 it ends as count 7 but you have mentioned 8. I guess it is -,3dc,-3dc .! Please help me

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Well spotted! Thanks for alerting me - I'll make the change. I'm super impressed when people spot errors by now, especially 3 years and >100 projects later... maybe the others are not as eagle-eyed :-) x

      Delete
    2. Ha ha! My count was keep on missing after i frogged so many times! 😊 Then i started to count the stitches then figured out😊 Pattern is so very awesome! I didnt stuck anywhere except this😊😊 Thanks for the great pattern !!

      Delete
  38. Super complicated! I stuck too it and crossed my eyes at it more than a few times! but it was worth it. i know mine isn't perfect, but it still looks good. Working on the spines right now, the home stretch! I don't think I'll have any issues with these since they are so similar to my mermaid flukes. Thank you for sharing this challenging and rewarding pattern!

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  39. Hi! Thank you for this awesome pattern! I can't even imagine how much work did you have while creating this masterpiece and I cannot thank you enough for offering it for free. I made it for my toddler as Christmas present and she totally loves it! The pattern is super complicated but you did a really great job explaining it thoroughly. Many thanks for your work! Cheers

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  40. Thank you for your your kind comment :-) Glad you liked the pattern! x

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  41. Thank you for your your kind comment :-) Glad you liked the pattern! x

    ReplyDelete