Tuesday, 30 July 2013

Knitty rainbow fun!


I've been neglecting my chameleon crochet and trouser making recently, because the chameleon is on its 5th pattern iteration, and the trousers had stupid errors in (see earlier mumblings).  I didn't feel too inspired.


I did feel inspired to finally finish the rainbow jumper for baby B with the amazing Adriafil Knitcol.  I chose quite a plain pattern (child's placket neck pullover by Joelle Hoverson), to show off the epic wool.
Pretty jumper front
The jumper pattern is fun to knit, but it's done top-up rather than bottom-down, which I find a bit peculiar.  It was my first time to use double-pointed needles (something I swore I'd never do), and my first attempt at magical Kitchener stitch.  I would totally make this pattern again, perhaps in plain wool for fun.  I read on Ravelry that this pattern can come up small, so I made size 2-4 years, and hopefully it will fit giant-baby at 1 year this winter.  Otherwise we must wait even longer to see the jumper on the model.
Jumper back
The knitcol is very fun to knit with.  I confess I stole the idea from my lovely friends who have also made knitcol baby jumpers/cardies.  I'm a bit late on the knitcol bandwagon, really.  I think the wool works best for children's clothes: they're small enough that the colour lengths go almost all the way across the body.  The result is a fun stripy effect, rather than the more mottled look you'd get on a bigger garment.  I was a bit fussy with the sleeves: I started a new ball for the second sleeve just so I could have the stripes exactly matching, rather than the almost-matching effect I was going to have if I didn't.  Perhaps I shouldn't have bothered, as the stitch direction reverses when you get to the placket, so the shoulders will never match each other anyway!

Mmmmm.... knitcol
I need to save some pennies to buy more epic knitcol.

Tuesday, 23 July 2013

A pretty blooper shirt!

I meant to post this aaaages ago (bad me), but somehow it didn't occur.  My lovely pattern tester made this super Blooper shirt for her son:

Note the epic pattern matching across the front!

Now for some close-ups, so you can see the french seams that she's made on the insides...

Neat stitchery!

mmmm... french seams...
I know I keep saying I'll get that pattern out.  I just need to make the changes that she highlighted before I release to the world!

Super-blooper, I like that... ha ha ha.

Thursday, 18 July 2013

Long sleeve shirt finished


I finally got around to putting buttons on the shirt!  I've not tried it on baby yet, so no idea how that's going to go.  Look at that fabric!  Just look at it!  I've ironed it, but you just can't tell.  So disappointing.

The shirt has no back yoke, and no cuffs (as the groom as already observed: "where will he put his cufflinks?") as I'm too lazy and tight on fabric.  I don't think it's necessary as the waistcoat is fussy enough.  Talking of which:


I need to make the neck on this pattern wider, and the sleeves longer on the short-sleeved version.  Undoubtedly there will be sleeve changes on the long sleeve one too.

I don't know what's up with the colour balance on my camera, everything looks blue.  Sadly for you, this is a sewing blog not a photography exhibition, so I'm not mucking about to correct it.  :-P

Wednesday, 17 July 2013

I am a muppet (trouser edition).

It must have been late at night when I drafted the trouser pattern, because when I got to sewing it up this morning I find the fly is on the outside of the leg!!!  ARGH!  No baby I know is constructed that way.  I feel such an idiot.  Am going to have to bodge a new fly at the front of the trousers, because I don't want to cut out a whole new set.

In other crochet news, I had a request to sell items made on my stegosaurus design.  I'd like to keep this pattern free for home use at the moment, so I'm trialling selling a license for commercial use.  If you're also interested in selling your handmade stegosaurus, contact me! 

I'm starting on my next crochet pattern: "hello chameleon".  I wanted to challenge myself to do something stripy and spirally, so we'll see how that goes.  I'm going to do some quick tests later to see if I can find a construction method with fewer yarn breaks, perhaps by using taller stitches or reversing the stitch direction.

Time to take pictures of my finished long-sleeved baby shirt!  I love having my sewing machine downstairs: I can get so much done, even though most of it is mending.

Tuesday, 16 July 2013

Monday, 15 July 2013

Moar hats!!!!!!!one!!

I feel like I'm going to have to begin every post with an apology for blog silence!  Perhaps you should all just expect reduced posting frequency here.  Baby is becoming more active so I can't be sitting at the computer much any more.  It's his least favourite thing for mummy to do (excepting hoovering).  In addition, those of you who are my facebook buddies will already be fed up of hearing about the comedy-of-errors that is our fridge breaking, swiftly followed by our kettle being recalled (no tea, argghhhh).  Our back-up kettle has just leaked a large volume of water all over the 240V connection.  SAFE.   So mostly I have been trying to diagnose faulty refrigeration devices, moving thermocouples around and buying chest freezers.

My sewing machine has been busy!  I finished two hats for friends' babies, which had to be a quick job before the heatwave ended and they grew bigger.  Fortunately the forecast indicates they have another week to wear them at least :-)  I really like the fabric combinations they picked out of my stash.

Quilting cottons

Cotton twill lined with printed silk

I've almost done the long-sleeved shirt for the wedding outfit: I'll post about that later when I finally take some pictures.

In other more wooly news, I finished the mystery crochet which I'll post a picture of another day.  I'm starting to sketch for my next crochet pattern!  The stegosaurus seems popular and I hope most of the pattern errors have now been ironed out.  I find it funny that it's more popular with parents than with babies; maybe toddlers will appreciate it more?

On the sad-and-lacking front, I've still not managed to get that shirt pattern ready for sale.  I think I want to lengthen the sleeves and widen the neck.  One day soon?!

Wednesday, 3 July 2013

Dullard no-pictures post.

Hello m'dears.

I hope you've all got your wool out for Mr Stegosaurus!  ;-)  It was quite a push to get that pattern out, so I hope you'll forgive the silence on the posting front.  Unfortunately baby prefers other toys which are more jangly, because I was so wound up about whether the stegosaurus looked like a beige poo that I forgot to put a bell in him.  Anyways, the pattern is now on Ravelry here (so you can queue it, ha ha), but of course it just links to this blog for the pattern.  I'm planning the next crochet pattern already!  (Shhhh...)

In other news, my lovely pattern tester (hello there!) has finished her version of the Blooper shirt and she's made a super job of it!  This means that when I get time for some last tweaks, I can release the pattern to the world.  Look out, dudes.

On the sewing front, I've almost finished the white long-sleeve shirt to go with the waistcoat.  I'm still disappointed in the fabric, but it looks better as a shirt.  I've not had chance to add buttons or button-holes yet, or to try sewing up the trousers.  I'm going to trial downstairs sewing to boost productivity, but probably not this week as I've got secret crochet to complete!

Monday, 1 July 2013

Free pattern: hello stegosaurus

As edited on 20th June 2014:
Fixed row 15 on plate #3, thanks Aparna!


Stegosaurus is worked mostly in double crochet (or, single crochet if you're from the US) and in continuous rounds like a spiral.  To get a uniform look on the stegosaurus body there's lots of stopping, breaking yarn and re-starting.  This is to avoid the different "look" of the stitches caused by changing direction or using a bigger stitch (e.g. trebles).  All these shenanigans mean that you can't pull your work down easily and re-use the wool, so use cheap stuff or count stitches like crazy!  Almost no two rounds are the same, and for that I apologise.  I've been explicit about where to place increases and decreases so that they're evenly spaced psuedo-randomly and they're not too obvious on the finished toy.  It is true that this pattern is complicated, but not needlessly so - if it were worked in the standard continuous spiral manner, the head and tail would appear higher up the body.  The method in this pattern allows the formation of a "hump" along the spine of the toy.

When working on the body, if you break yarn or join on again then you can catch the spare yarn "tail" into every other stitch behind your work as you stitch past the join.  This avoids a tonne of ends to sew in, and possibly makes the toy a bit more robust.

I recommend using a bunch of safety pins as stitch-markers to indicate the beginning of the round, and to mark out any stitches you think you might loose or ignore accidentally when you pass them on the next round.  YOU MUST KEEP TRACK OF THE BEGINNING OF EACH ROUND or your life will be very hard!  The marker should be placed in the first stitch of the round.  On just a few occasions I'll tell you to re-position this start marker further along the round.

Please contact me if you find an error and I'll be pleased to correct it!  I hope you enjoy the toy and will consider following my blog.  Please don't sell this pattern or items based on it - it's for your personal enjoyment only.

***UK CROCHET TERMS THROUGHOUT!***

To change to American crochet terms

Just copy the text on this page into your favourite text editor and do a find & replace to change sc->sl st and dc ->sc (in that order) and colour -> color ;-) and you’re ready to go stateside! Hoorah!

Positioning the start marker

The stitch with the marker in is “stitch 1”, and I always count from the marker. You just move the stitch marker up each round: when you get to the marker, take it out of the stitch it’s in, make that stitch, and place it into the stitch you just made. (The only time you move the marker in a different way is in rows 67 and 79.

After each "round", you will work your last stitch into the stitch right before the marker, or else earlier (if you see the "break yarn" instruction).  You will never blithely continue past the marker in a round - if you find yourself doing this then it's a sign you've made a counting error somewhere.  If you add up the number of stitches involved in each row instruction, you will see they exactly add up to the total (given in square brackets at the end of each row).  I've been very careful to check the mathematical accuracy of this pattern as I wrote it, so you really can rely on the pattern to help you spot your counting errors.

Re-joining the yarn in the next round

Some row instructions are a bit opaque. I'm going to explain the ones where you join the wool in again, using row 19 as an example:

19) Join by making next st in 8th st from start marker (7 st left unworked). 1 sc, 4 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 13 dc (... as 3 dc, ^, 9 dc) [33] 

You start counting at the marker (the stitch that the marker is placed in is called "stitch 1", the next stitch is "stitch 2" and so on) and count in the direction you're stitching. In the case of row 19, you count up to the 8th stitch and join the wool in there. So, that's the 8th stitch after the marker. The 1st stitch (with marker in) is left unworked, and so are the next 6 stitches after it, which is what I mean by "7 stitches left unworked". Then you do 1 sc, 4 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 13 dc. The sc in this instruction is into the stitch where you just joined the yarn ("stitch 8"). The bit in parenthesis "(... as 3 dc, ^, 9 dc)" explains that the 13 dc are made into 3 dc, then 1 sc, then 9 dc on the row before. You don't need to know that, but it might help to check your stitch numbers are correct! So, adding up stitch numbers on row 19, you should have:

7 unworked & 1 sc & 4 dc & inc & 1 dc & inc & 1 dc & inc & 13 dc = 33 stitches in total, into the 30 stitches on the row before (because we did 3 increases this row).

Extra help

If you are struggling with stitch counting or yarn joining/breaking, I've provided some photo tutorials here.

Keep asking questions in the comments if it's still confusing! :-)  I usually get an e-mail notification and will endeavour to respond to you.  I know this is a difficult and non-standard pattern, and no, short-rows will not produce the same effect (I tried).  However, before commenting please make sure you have read ALL the above text twice and also read through the comments already made on this post as your question may have already been answered.


To shorten the instructions, I'll use the following abbreviations:
sc = UK single crochet
dc = UK double crochet
+ = dc inc (make two dc into one stitch on the row below)
- = dc dec (dc two stitches together)
^ = dc into a sc on the row below.  (I indicate these as a special stitch only to help you keep track of where in the round you are.)
Stitch totals at the end of each row are indicated in square brackets as [total].
Repeated units are inside curly braces, e.g. "{3 dc, +} 3 times" would mean: "3 dc, inc, 3 dc, inc, 3 dc, inc".

To find out how to do a magic ring, see this tutorial: clicky here.

You will need:
Double knitting wool in 2 colours.  I used probably about 50g or less of the main colour.  I wish I had weighed how much exactly...
3mm crochet hook
scissors
tapestry needle for sewing in ends
safety pins as stitch markers
polyester stuffing

Stegosaurus Body


In main colour.

1) Magic ring, 6 dc [6]
2) {+} 6 times [12]
3) {3 dc, +} 3 times [15]
4) 2 dc, +, 2 dc, +, 3 dc, +, 3 dc, +, 1 dc [19]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end.  Nobody wants stuffing oozing out of a dinosaur nose.
5) {5 dc, +} 3 times, 1 dc [22]
6) 5 dc, +, 16 dc [23]
7) 17 dc, +, 5 dc [24]
8) 24 dc [24]
9) 24 dc [24]
10) 24 dc [24]
11) {6 dc, -} 3 times [21]
12) 3 dc, -, 4 dc, -, 3 dc, -, 3 dc, - [17]
13) 6 dc, -, 3 dc, 1 sc.  Break yarn (5 st left unworked in this round) [16]
14) Join by making next st in 2nd st from start marker (1 st left unworked).  1 sc, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 2 dc, +, 7 dc (... as 1 dc, ^, 5 dc) [19]
15) 3 dc (... as 1 dc, ^, 1dc), +, 3 dc, +, 3 dc, +, 1 dc, 1 sc.  Break yarn (5 st left unworked) [22]
16) Join by making next st in 2nd st from start marker (1 st left unworked).  1 sc, 4 dc, +, 4 dc, +, 3 dc, 1 sc.  Break yarn (6 st left unworked in this round) [24]
17) Join by making next st in 5th st from start marker (4 st left unworked).  1 sc, 1 dc, +, {2 dc, +} 3 times, 8 dc (... as 1 dc, ^, ^, 5 dc) [28]
18) 8 dc (... as 1 dc, ^, 2 dc, ^, 3 dc), +, 8 dc, +, 1 sc.  Break yarn (9 st left unworked) [30]
19) Join by making next st in 8th st from start marker (7 st left unworked).  1 sc, 4 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 13 dc (... as 3 dc, ^, 9 dc) [33]
20) 12 dc (... as 7 dc, ^, 4 dc), +, 3 dc, +, 3 dc, +, 1 sc.  Break yarn (11 st left unworked) [36]
21) Join by making next st in 10th st from start marker (9 st left unworked).  1 sc, +, 4 dc, +, 4 dc, +, 15 dc (... as 3 dc, ^, 11 dc) [39]
22) 16 dc (... as 9 dc, ^, 6 dc), +, 3 dc, +, 3 dc, +, 1 sc.  Break yarn (13 st left unworked) [42]
23) Join by making next st in 14th st from start marker (13 st left unworked).  1 sc, +, 4 dc, +, 4 dc, +, 17 dc (... as 3 dc, ^, 13 dc) [45]
24) 19 dc (... as 13 dc, ^, 5 dc), +, 2 dc, +, 2 dc, +, 1 sc.  Break yarn (18 st left unworked) [48]
25) Join by making next st in 20th st from start marker (19 st left unworked).  1 sc, {+, 2 dc} 3 times, + (in sc below), 18 dc [52]
26) 26 dc, +, 25 dc [53]
27) 13 dc, +, 5 dc, +, 10 dc, 1 sc.  Break yarn (22 st left unworked) [55]
28) Join by making next st in 27th st from start marker (26 st left unworked).  1 sc, +, 3 dc, +, 5 dc (... as ^, 4 dc), +, 5 dc, +, 11 dc [59]
29) 17 dc, +, 27 dc, +, 13 dc [61]
30) 27 dc, +, 4 dc, +, 4 dc, +, 23 dc [64]
31) 24 dc, +, 18 dc, +, 20 dc [66]
32) 21 dc, +, 26 dc, +, 17 dc [68]
33) 33 dc, +, 6 dc, +, 27 dc [70]
34) 32 dc, +, 37 dc [71]
35) 44 dc, +, 26 dc [72]
36) 54 dc, 1 sc.  Break yarn (17 st left unworked) [72]
37) Join by making next st in 25th st from start marker (24 st left unworked).  1 sc, 14 dc, +, 32 dc (... as 14 dc, ^, 17 dc) [73]
38) 73 dc (... as 24 dc, ^, 48 dc) [73]
39) We have passed the widest part of the body, so begin to decrease.  39 dc, -, 32 dc [72]
40) 30 dc, -, 40 dc [71]
41) 48 dc, -, 21 dc [70]
42) 39 dc, -, 29 dc [69]
43) 34 dc, -, 7 dc, -, 24 dc [67]
44) 31 dc, -, 11 dc, -, 21 dc [65]
45) 27 dc, -, 8 dc, -, 9 dc, -, 15 dc [62]
46) 32 dc, -, 6 dc, -, 20 dc [60]
47) 26 dc, -, 7 dc, -, 7 dc, -, 1 sc.  Break yarn (13 st left unworked) [57]
48) Join by making next st in 26th st from start marker (25 st left unworked).  1 sc, 3 dc, -, 7 dc , -, 17 dc (... as 3 dc, ^, 13 dc) [55]
49) 27 dc (... as 25 dc, ^, 1 dc), -, 6 dc, -, 6 dc, -, 10 dc [52]
50) 23 dc, {-, 5 dc} 3 times, 1 sc.  Break yarn (7 st left unworked) [49]
51) Join by making next st in 22th st from start marker (21 st left unworked).  1 sc, 1 dc, -, 12 dc , -, 10 dc (... as 2 dc, ^, 7 dc) [47]
52) 24 dc (... as 21 dc, ^, 2 dc), -, 6 dc, -, 6 dc, -, 5 dc [44]
53) 20 dc, -, 5 dc, -, 5 dc, -, 7 dc, 1 sc.  Break yarn (0 st left unworked) [41]
54) Join by making next st in 17th st from start marker (16 st left unworked).  1 sc, 6 dc, -, 7 dc , -, 7 dc (... as 6 dc, ^) [39]
55) 23 dc (... as 16 dc, ^, 6 dc), -, 5 dc, -, 7 dc [37]
56) 20 dc, -, 9 dc, -, 1 sc.  Break yarn (3 st left unworked) [35]
57) Join by making next st in 20th st from start marker (19 st left unworked).  1 sc, 1 dc, -, 2 dc , -, 2 dc, -, 4 dc (... as ^, 3 dc) [32]
Stuff the body up to here, and from now on keep stuffing as you go.  The head needs to be stuffed firmly but the body can be softer. 
58) 18 dc, - (into dc and sc below), 10 dc, - [30]
59) 19 dc, -, 6 dc, -, 1 dc [28]
60) 22 dc, -, 4 dc [27]
61) -, 16 dc, -, 7 dc [25]
62) 20 dc, -, 3 dc [24]
63) -, 14 dc, -, 6 dc [22]
64) 17 dc, -, 3 dc [21]
65) 15 dc, -, 4 dc [20]
66) 1 dc, -, 17 dc [19]
67) 19 dc [19]
The start marker has now worked so far around that it's on the dinosaur's back instead of its belly!  We're going to move it forward in the direction of stitching by 8 stitches.  Once you've done that, crochet up to the new position by doing 8 dc.
68) 5 dc, -, 7 dc, 1 sc.  Break yarn (4 st left unworked) [18]
69) Join by making next st in 5th st from start marker (4 st left unworked).  1 sc, 6 dc, -, 5 dc (... as ^, 4 dc) [17]
70) 17 dc (... as 4 dc, ^, 12 dc) [17]
71) 7 dc, -,  8 dc [16]
72) 9 dc, -,  5 dc [15]
73) 15 dc [15]
74) 8 dc, -,  5 dc [14]
75) 14 dc [14]
76) 6 dc, -,  6 dc [13]
77) 9 dc, -,  2 dc [12]
78) 8 dc, -,  2 dc [11]
79) 11 dc [11]
Time to move the start marker one last time.  Move it forward in the direction of stitching by 3 stitches, to what was previously stitch number 4.  Once you've done that, crochet up to the new position by doing 3 dc.
80) 5 dc, -,  4 dc [10]
81) 4 dc, -,  4 dc [9]
82) 6 dc, -,  1 dc [8]
83) 8 dc [8]
84) -, 6 dc [7]
85) 3 dc, -,  2 dc [6]
86) 6 dc [6]
87) {-} 3 times [3]
Sew up the tail end.

Stegosaurus Feet


Make 4 in main colour.

1) Magic ring, 6 dc [6]
2) {+} 6 times [12]
3) {1 dc, +} 6 times [18]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end.
4) 18 dc into back loops of previous row. [18]
5-8) 18 dc [18]
9) 3 sc.  Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.

Stegosaurus Armour


In accent colour.  The plates are numbered from 1 to 7, starting at the head end.

Plate #3 (make 2)


1) Magic ring, 5 dc [5]
2) +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, + [8]
3) +, 2 dc, +, 2 dc, +, 1 dc [11]
4) +, 5 dc, +, 4 dc, [13]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end.
5) 1 dc, +, 6 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 2 dc [16]
6) 1 dc, +, 7 dc, +, 6 dc [18]
7) 5 dc, +, 12 dc [19]
8) 1 dc, +, 9 dc, +, 7 dc [21]
9) 21 dc [21]
10) 2 dc, -, 9 dc, -, 6 dc [19]
11) 1 dc, -, 8 dc, -, 6 dc [17]
12) 1 dc, -, 3 dc, -, 2 dc, -, 5 dc [14]
13) -, 5 dc, -, 5 dc [12]
14) -, 4 dc, -, 4 dc [10]
15) -, 3 dc, -, 3 dc [8]
16) 1 sc.  Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.

Plate #4 (make 2)


1) Magic ring, 5 dc [5]
2) +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, + [8]
3) +, 2 dc, +, 2 dc, +, 1 dc [11]
4) +, 5 dc, +, 4 dc, [13]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end.
5) +, 6 dc, +, 5 dc, [15]
6) 1 dc, +, 7 dc, +, 5 dc [17]
7) 1 dc, +, 8 dc, +, 6 dc [19]
8) 16 dc, +, 2 dc [20]
9) 1 dc, -, 8 dc, -, 7 dc [18]
10) -, 7 dc, -, 7 dc [16]
11) -, 6 dc, -, 6 dc [14]
12) -, 5 dc, -, 1 dc, -, 2 dc [11]
13) -, 4 dc, -, 2 dc, 1 sc [9]
Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.

Plate #2, #5 (make 4)


1) Magic ring, 5 dc [5]
2) +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc, + [8]
3) +, 3 dc, +, 3 dc [10]
4) +, 4 dc, +, 4 dc [12]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end.
5) 1 dc, +, 5 dc, +, 4 dc [14]
6) 4 dc, +, 9 dc [15]
7) 15 dc [15]
8) 1 dc, -, 2 dc, -, 2 dc, -, 4 dc [12]
9) 1 dc, -, 4 dc, -, 3 dc [10]
10) -, 3 dc, -, -, 1 sc [7]
Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.

Plate #1, #6 (make 4)


1) Magic ring, 5 dc [5]
2) 1 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc [7]
3) 1 dc, +, +, 1 dc, +, 2 dc [10]
4) 1 dc, +, 8 dc [11]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end.
5) 7 dc, +, 3 dc [12]
6) {1 dc, -} 3 times, 3 dc [9]
7) -, 2 dc, -, 3 dc [7]
8) -, 1 dc, -, 1 dc, 1 sc [5]
Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.

Plate #7 (make 2)


1) Magic ring, 5 dc [5]
2) 1 dc, +, 1 dc, +, 1 dc [7]
3) +, 2 dc, +, 3 dc [9]
Pull the magic loop tighter and sew in the loose end.
4) -, 2 dc, -, 3 dc [7]
5) -, 1 dc, -, 1 dc, 1 sc [5]
Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.

Tail Spike (make 4)


1) Magic ring, 3 dc [3]
2) 1 dc, +, 1 dc [4]
3) +, 3 dc [5]
4) 4 dc, + [6]
5) 2 dc, +, 3 dc [7]
6) 7 dc [7]
7) 7 dc [7]
8) 2 sc.  Tie off and break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing together.

Flatten the plates and sew them along the spine of the animal in two rows using the picture as a reference.  Sew the four tail spikes into a bunch such that the bottoms of the spikes are left open and they're arranged at the corners of a square.  Sew this bunch on at the end of the tail, by stitching in a square around the base of the bunch.  Stuff the feet and sew them to the base of the stegosaurus; however don't over-stuff the feet or the soles will become concave and make it difficult for the dinosaur to stand up!  Embroider the eyes.




Update 6 July 2013:


I realise now that some bits ARE a bit confusing! So, I added some notes which have since been moved to join the rest of the instructions above.

Update 8 July 2013:


Some errors fixed in pattern for feet.  Thank you chippaliz on Ravelry!

Update 11 July 2013:


Correction to plate 4, row 8.

Update 18 July 2013:


Correction to body pattern row 20.  Thank you Lauren S!